Visit www.AnnualCreditReport.com

Experian
www.experian.com
1-888-397-3742

Equifax
www.equifax.com
1-800-685-1111

Trans Union
www.transunion.com
1-800-888-4213

Developed in 1956, a Fair Isaac Corporation Score (commonly called the FICO Score) is a three digit number ranging from 300-850 and is calculated according to the following risk factors:

Payment History (35% of score):
*Payment information on many types of accounts
*Public record and collection items
*Details on late or missed payments – specifically:
(how late they were, how much was owed, how recently they occurred
how many there are)

Amounts Owed (30% of score):
*Amount owed on all accounts
*Amount owed on different types of accounts
*Whether you are showing a balance on certain types of accounts
*How much of the total credit line is being used
*How much of installment loan accounts is still owed

Length of Credit History (15% of score):
*How long your credit accounts have been established, in general
*How long specific credit accounts have been established
*How long it has been since you used certain accounts

New Credit & Inquiries (10% of score):
*What kinds of credit accounts you have and how many of each
*Total number of accounts you have

Types of Credit (10% of score):
*How many new accounts you have
*How long it has been since you opened a new account
*How many recent requests for credit you have made

What It Means:
Once the borrower’s score is derived, most lenders use a standard ‘grading’ system to categorize the results. While some lenders develop their own systems for classification of scores, below is a general guide of score interpretation. Used as a general reference, this can help you interpret the credit score you’ve been given based on a grading system typically used in schools:

CREDIT SCORE – GRADE
670 and above – A+ to A
650 – A-
620 – B+ to B-
580 – C+ to C-
550 – D+ to D-
520 or below – E

1. Check attic insulation. A foot of blown-in or batt insulation (R-38) in the attic reduces heat transfer from heated interior space to the great outdoors. This is a do-it-yourself job. If your attic is not insulated, blow in or roll out 12 inches of loose or batt insulation. If the amount of insulation is less than 12 inches, simply roll out unfaced fiberglass batts over the existing insulation to create a heavier thermal blanket. This is a case where more is better. Make sure to leave soffit vents unobstructed.

2. Install or replace weatherstripping, if necessary. Check the rubber threshold gasket at the bottom of exterior doors and replace if worn or torn. Next, make sure the top and sides of the door are weatherstripped and fit tightly. If there are gaps, replace the weatherstripping.

3. Check exterior doors and windows for gaps. Modern windows are probably OK, but older windows may need some help. To reduce air leakage, casement windows might need some weatherstripping at the joint where fixed and movable panes meet. Old double-hung wood windows are notorious air leakers. Place pieces of narrow self-adhesive rubber weatherstripping on the bottom sides and at the joint where the top and bottom panes meet.

4. Check the outside of doors and windows for voids, and caulk any gaps you see.

5. Change the filter in the heater. In older furnaces, filters should be changed monthly. Change or service newer, more efficient filters according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

6. Replace your old thermostat with a new programmable model. This allows you to regulate the heater to warm the house when you’re there and to reduce the temperature when you are at work or asleep.

7. Have your heater inspected by a licensed heating and air conditioning contractor. An inspection ensures that the heater is operating safely and efficiently. In many cases an inspection can alert you as to whether the unit is at the end of its life. It’s nice to have the option to replace an old heater before it quits and becomes an emergency on a cold January day.

8. Check the carbon monoxide (CO) detector. If you don’t have one, get one. Carbon monoxide is an odorless and colorless gas that kills. An operating CO detector can prevent a tragedy. While you’re at it, check the smoke detectors to ensure they’re operable.

9. Clean gutters and downspouts so fallen leaves won’t clog them. Make sure that downspouts discharge away from the foundation and that soil is graded away from the foundation and at least 6 inches below the siding.

10. Clean the fireplace of ashes; visually check the chimney for loose or missing mortar. Also consider having the chimney professionally inspected and swept by a licensed and bonded chimney sweep.

WHAT IS IT: A chance to work with your friends to promote Tyler, greet tourists & pose for photographs in front of scenic azalea bushes in the historic brick street district wearing antebellum dresses.

WHO CAN APPLY: Freshman and sophomore girls residing in Smith County who will be available for the event times mentioned and would enjoy working with visitors to Tyler. You must be academically eligible because there will be one event during school hours (Friday morning, March 23rd). There are a few meetings you will be required to attend in preparation of the event for orientation, fittings and photo shoots.

GENERAL INFORMATION: Two or three girls will be assigned to each house so that no one will be alone at any location. A typical schedule involves working 3½ hours on Saturday (morning or afternoon shifts available) and Sunday afternoons for the weekends during the Festival. The 2012 Festival is scheduled for March 23 – April 8. There is typically some press publicity and other appreciation from the Convention & Visitors Bureau and the community. The only cost involved in being an Azalea Belle is the cost of the white satin gloves (about $20). These will be yours to keep. All other supplies are provided by the Convention & Visitors Bureau.

WHAT TO DO: Get an application from your counselor or you can access it online at www.tylerazaleatrail.com, fill it out and bring it by or mail it to the Convention & Visitors Bureau no later than Friday, January 20, 2012.

For more information on events in Smith County or real estate information, contact your local Tyler Real Estate agent, Tanya Redic with CIDER Properties at (903) 360-7568 or Tanya@SoldByTanyaRedic.com.

You may be eligible to sell your home in a short sale, if:

*you have a hardship, such as a job loss, divorce or medical emergency
*you owe more than your house is worth
*you’re unable to afford your current monthly mortgage payment
*you’re unable to modify your current home loan

A short sale generally takes less time to complete than a foreclosure, so your reported delinquency could be shorter than it would with a foreclosure. As a result, your credit will likely improve faster than it would if your house goes to foreclosure.

Contact me for more information on short sales.

The goal of this program is to help you sell your home in a short sale and settle your mortgage debt if you owe more on your mortgage than your house is worth and are unable to qualify for a home loan assistance program.

This federal government program streamlines the short sale approval process and offers financial assistance to help you with relocation.

You may be eligible for the Home Affordable Foreclosure Alternatives program if:

*the property is your current principal residence, OR the property has been vacant or rented out for less than 12 months, and you have not bought another principal residence during that time.
*the amount you owe on your first mortgage for your property is equal to or less than:
$729,750 for 1 unit
$934,200 for 2 units
$1,129,250 for 3 units
$1,403,400 for 4 units

*you owe more on your home than it’s worth
*your current mortgage was taken out on or before January 1, 2009
*you are experiencing a hardship (such as a job loss, divorce or medical emergency) and are unable to afford your current home loan

Contact me to get started on your short sale.

What exactly is a foreclosure?

A foreclosure is a legal means by which a lender seeks the collateral of a borrower who has defaulted on their mortgage payments.

Default occurs when a borrower fails to meet the repayment terms of his/her loan contract. A more relatable way to describe it would be repossession of someone’s home or property.

The first missed payment is technically considered defaul, but most lenders are likely not to begin the foreclosure process until a consectutive amount of payments have been missed.

Bookmark this page to learn more about foreclosures and the foreclosure process.